Tasting Notes
The 2013 B. Kosuge "Sonoma Coast" Pinot Noir is garnet in color in the glass. The nose opens slowly over time revealing aromas of wild berry fruit, luring spice and unmistakable energy about them that is very compelling. A full mid palate with lively flavors of mixed red fruit and savory, with a nice punch of toasty French oak. Well rounded, and firm tannins bring it all together to satisfy the palate. Like most well made Pinot, this one likes a little air.
Hirsch Vineyard
Because the “true” Sonoma Coast, where Hirsch is located, is almost entirely mountainous, the percentage of plantable land on any parcel is quite low. Much of the land is too steep to farm, and for the most part all that is planted is what lies atop the various ridges. Ridgetop soils are often highly eroded, which is usually good for winegrapes because much of the organic matter is leached out and the ground tends to be well drained. It is also highly exposed to the sun and to the wind as well. The vineyard is subject to the cooling influence of the ocean, but it is high enough in elevation that it is above the fog much of the time. In fact, if you were the same distance from the ocean as Hirsch vineyard but at or near sea level, it would be too cold to ripen grapes. The area also has a tendency toward extreme weather in the spring. But the wines from this place (producers including Kistler, Littorai and Williams Selyem) have a wild berry fruit, luring spice and unmistakable energy about them that is very compelling.
Barlow Homestead Vineyard
Located just to the northwest of Sebastopol. It is farmed by a gentleman named Paul Sloan, who brings a singular approach to winegrowing. He farms several small parcels in the Sonoma Coast, and all of the sites he farms are planted to tight spacing--generally one meter between plants and 1.3 meters between rows, yielding 3600 vines per acre. Very much inspired by the vineyards of Burgundy. But he has adapted his practices to the Californian climate (for example, the fruiting wire, often only 18 inches above the ground in the old world, is higher in his vineyards to avoid the reflected heat from the ground in our hotter climate). The care and attention to detail that is lavished on these vineyards is inspiring. A pioneer, in my view, and exactly the kind of grower I want to work with. In addition to the high density plantings, he uses techniques drawn from Biodynamic and organic farming.
Winemaking
2013 was one of those rare vintages when quality and quantity were not mutually exclusive. Byron had, for the second year in a row, enough wine that he could “cherry pick” the best barrels for the Habitat and Hirsch bottlings he makes, and still have some great wine leftover to bottle at a lower price point, which is exactly what he did.
Seven barrels were left out of the top tier, about two thirds of it from Hirsch and the other third from the two vineyards that comprise The Habitat. As it turns out, all of the new oak from the three lots went into this blend, so there is a nice punch of toasty oak.
His 2013 Pinots in general were slow to open up, particularly in the aromatics, giving them more of a “classic” structure. Great with food, The pricing on this wine makes it a good restaurant wine, as well as a worthy accompaniment to your daily table.
All Wines
95 Points
Lofty aromas of ripe dark fruits, wild berries, roasted fig, English Toffee, savory spices, and roasted walnuts. On the palate, the deep flavors of dark cherry, ripe plum, black raspberry and pomegranate are layered with notes of wild sage, clove, nutmeg, and bittersweet chocolate. Robust and mouth-filling, with spicy nuances, smooth tannins, firm structure, and a long lingering finish.
95 Points, Double Gold
Deep ruby in color this wine is bountiful, juicy and structured. Blueberry, black cherry and wild blackberry, framed by notes of sweet licorice, violets, sage and bay leaf. Impeccably balanced with fine dusty tannins hint at a long life ahead in the cellar.
90 Points
Inviting aromas of cherry, raspberry, and blackberry intermixed with hints of cranberry and blood orange. Graceful and soft on the front palate, the flavors of mixed red berries and the lively tannins add luscious texture. Its long finish reveals spicy undertones and a superb freshness.
91 Points
Layers of strawberry, baked cherry pie, anise, cherry lollipop, wild game, and spicebox. On the palate, black cherry jam couples with crème de cassis, mixed berry crisp, rhubarb, and a touch of vanilla.
Big & Jammy!
Aromas and robust flavors of dark cherry, blackberries, mocha, espresso and hints of black pepper. Incredibly balanced with a smooth mouthfeel and body against a backdrop of structured tannins. The wine unfolds with notes of clove and dried herbs, ending with a long rich finish.
95 Points
Opens with wild cherry cordial and fresh pomegranate layered with notes of baking spice and zest. Subtle touches of pink peppercorn lemon balm and sarsparilla carry through a savory palate. It's balanced, with silky layers and a juicy red core.
92 Points
A powerful expression of Cabernet Sauvignon. On the nose, it's enticing and fragrant, bursting with fresh blueberries, blackberry tart, cedar, black olives, and hints of spicebox. Its palate provides big, round chewy tannins, sweet ripe black cherries, blackberry cordial, Bourbon-soaked maraschino cherries, maple roasted walnuts, and a touch of vanilla.
92 Points
Aromas of black cherry jam, boysenberry, raspberry, interlace with hints of baking spice, espresso bean, and toasted nut. On the palate ripe and juicy flavors of dark cherry, huckleberry and raspberry are perfectly integrated with notes of spice, dark chocolate, and a kiss of American oak.
94 Points
Dark fruit with blueberry fruit aromas and notes of mocha and cassis. The texture is silky, rich and mouth-filling with berry pie, black tea, exotic spice and notes of chocolate fudge on the palate. Fine grain tannins lengthen the finish with dark fruit flavors mingling with just a hint of mint.
Big, Bold & Juicy!
Bountiful, lavish and plush with aromas of plum, bramble berry, mocha, cedar, and red currant. Loaded with dark fruit, the mouth is full with a mix of red and dark berry, with notes of dark on the end. There is a touch of espresso, ripe black cherry, and petrichor. Nicely framed by generous French oak.
93 Points
Lovely aromas of crushed blueberry, red and blue plum, dried violet flower. It's juicy and engaging, with smoked red raspberry, wild blackberry, hoisin, sweet backing spices coursing through, and offers balance and depth with perfect levels of acidity with silky tannins leading to a long engaging finish.
Rich & Tropical...
Notes of tropical and ripe stone fruits, with aromas of fig, golden apple and hints of butterscotch, integrated with the richer aromas of light caramel, truffle and toasted vanilla from the oak aging. The palate and texture is rich, full-bodied and creamy, while maintaining a balanced vibrancy and finish.
93 Points
Juicy pear and lively pineapple with touches of dried apple apricot and honeysuckle on the nose. Round and viscous on the palate, balanced by fresh lemon, layers of citrus and blanched almond.
93 Points
Rich dark black fruits, blueberries, blackberry bon bons, cassis, fragrant violets, tobacco leaf, and baking spices. Long, plush tannins alongside its dense fruit character. The palate delivers baked berry crisp, black and red fruits, toasted walnuts, brioche and cedar on the finish.
92 Points
Depth, balance and big flavors. The nose evokes black cherry pie, licorice, plums, vanilla, and notes of chocolate. On the palate, it bursts with cassis, red currants, toasted walnuts, and chocolate. This wine has great texture that ultimately finishes with round, silky smooth tannins.
Pure, delicious, vibrant with aromas of white peach and wild white plum on the nose, followed by ripe Persian lime, jasmine high times, tart green apple, and crisp star fruit. The mouth centers in with pomelo and ginger lime leading into a mid-palate of fresh squeezed lime over papaya and lime zest on top of light lemon curd.